Vw 01p Transmission Manual

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Pry off line/hose from slave cylinder on transmission. Vehicles with automatic transmission: Repair Manual, 4 Spd. Automatic Transmission 01P, Repair Group. Sonnax Transmission parts for VW/Audi 01P applications. 01P Tech Resources View all Transmissions. Manual Valve Operating Rod 119940-23. VW Eurovan 01P Transmission Overhaul Kit 4 Speed Automatic G93 1992. We Have Millions Of Parts In Stock for Automatic and Manual Transmissions.

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Nice to see some posts about transmission issues that include detail. Recall other R & R's and rebuilds from archived posts, too. Many less than successful repairs, and very little evidence that shops diagnosed problems or paid attention to owner comments prior to tearing things apart. But that's not anything new, right? What I don't understand (and can't fully appreciate since I'm not in the trans repair business) is that there is plenty of diagnostic and tear-down evidence pointing to valve and valve body issues as the culprit in most VW/Audi transmission problems. These issues are so well established about the VW/Audi 096, 097, 098, 01P, 01M, 01N transmissions that there are many kits and rebuilt valve bodies from sources like these: Also from GTIMatt's post: In particular, read what the 'driver complaint' is that the various parts are supposed to remedy.

Most of these complaints have been mentioned in our forums. Google 'sonnax VW 01P or 'VW Audi AG4 transmission valve' for more examples. For example, many people on VWvortex temporarily solve slow shifts by screwing in the pressure regulator valve. According to Sonnax, the root problem is that valve body wear or a weakened pressure regulator spring causes lower fluid pressure. In most of the threads we see metal bits in pans and on the magnets, but unless there has been a dramatic part failure or abuse, replacing clutch plates, planetary gears, and torque convertors seems unnecessary. Excessive wear due to poor shifting caused by sticking valves and/or erratic pressure regulation seems a reasonable conclusion.

Thinking that hardened gear surfaces are spontaneously disintegrating is not reasonable. Circulating particles and degraded fluid would also lead me to predict that there are some worn o-rings, blocked passages and worn valve body surfaces, but all of these are resident in the valve body assembly. Again, while I'm an accomplished mechanic I don't have years on a transmission bench. However my guess is that replacing the valve body with a modified, rebuilt unit which incorporates some of the supposedly improved (over OEM) valve tweaks like Sonnax offers would fix most Eurovan transmission problems relatively inexpensively and maybe even permanently without removing the transmission from the vehicle. It looks like replacing the valve body is about as difficult as changing the filter. I know this is not what you want to hear but.I don't remember any posts about people fixing something like hard shifting - very pricey to mess with a valve body. With these transmissions, it seems to be either 'it works' or 'it doesn't'.

There has been some playing around with the screw setting inside, but I think that might be hiding an overall issue. Given the history - and lack of VW EV trans knowledge out there - you might be looking a gift horse in the mouth by showing concern over hard shifting.

My approach to these trannies (not found in manuals): - fluid and filter every 40K (or sooner) - slow starts with no romping on it - say nurturing things to the van every day - improves karma - wash it every week or so to help it feel 'loved' - if you are religious, include the van in every prayer Some people pay for advice this profound. I'm giving it out for free - good thing I'm here for you. Quote, originally posted by mekramer001 » Nice to see some posts about transmission issues that include detail. Recall other R & R's and rebuilds from archived posts, too. Many less than successful repairs, and very little evidence that shops diagnosed problems or paid attention to owner comments prior to tearing things apart. But that's not anything new, right?

What I don't understand (and can't fully appreciate since I'm not in the trans repair business) is that there is plenty of diagnostic and tear-down evidence pointing to valve and valve body issues as the culprit in most VW/Audi transmission problems. As I have been reading your post and doing some research on my own, your theories sound reasonable to me. Unfortunately research into availability of a rebuilt 01p valve body, or the cost of such an item has been impossible to find. Anyone have any ideas where to find such info or items? Well, it looks like I won't be shopping for a valve body any time soon. I have been having issues with van engaging in reverse for some time now.

Brought the van into a VW dealer.not my local one, but one VW sent me to as 'listed' as a Eurovan service center. I brought it to dealer because I have an extended warranty and figured if warranty will pay, I'd rather have work done at dealer. Anyway, report today is transmission has internal issues.

Service tech read notes describing reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch. Solution.as far as they are concerned is new transmission. I am waiting to see if warranty will cover. Can't see why they won't. Transmission was serviced at recommended intervals so I can't see a valid reason they won't cover.

I'll try to learn more about reasons for failure and post if I do. I guess I should be happy I made it to 94,500 miles.

Quote, originally posted by aebad » Anyway, report today is transmission has internal issues. Service tech read notes describing reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch. Solution.as far as they are concerned is new transmission. OK, so translating this typical dealer mumbo jumbo: 'report today is transmission has internal issues' - translated this means something is wrong inside the transmission, and not the gear selector or engine management computer. 'reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch' translated: Of course clutches don't leak, but the valves supplying the hydraulic pressure to operate them can 'leak' (what they are really doing is bypassing too much or not sealing properly, causing a clutch to not move when it should). Their diagnosis is from test driving, not from a tear down inspection.

So at this point, they are saying your complaints have merit, something is wrong in the transmission, and they want to replace the whole thing. So if you get a warranty transmission replacement at N/C, great. If they come back with anything over say $1500 to $1800 out of pocket for you, just replace or repair the valve body, runs about $800 for a rebuilt unit. If you can change your transmission filter, you can replace the valve body, or give it to a good VW/Audi independent to do. I just replaced the filter on mine and checked into what it takes to remove the valve body.

If you are comfortable with replacing brakes, tune-ups, etc and have a clean dry place to work changing the valve body should not be a big deal. 99% of the time in Eurovan transmissions the failed components are the main and boost regulator valves.

Vw 01p Transmission Manual

This causes not enough pressure to be available for the rest of the valve body and clutches. Sometimes, one of the other shift control valves is worn or is leaking (bypassing fluid). Sometimes a failing connection from the ribbon cable that feeds the solenoids.

That's about it. All can be fixed without removing the transmission, preferable in my book to dropping an otherwise good transmission out to replace it with an unknown. Quote, originally posted by VWEnthu1 » Now if I could just find anyone south of Kentucky willing to put it in. You might as well have a 'radioactive' emblem on these vans when you pull into a shop in the SE. I really can't explain this. I've worked on lots of cars over the years, and I find Eurovans to be one of the simpliest and easiest to do most anything on. The problem seems more in the area of getting the correct part or a repair manual reference- but these are not issues of the van, these are issues of a poorly deployed repair infrastructure.

Quote, originally posted by aebad » Have you tried contacting any of these places regarding prices and availability? I did so a couple of times since I made that post and haven't gotten any replies. I see them mentioned in the links, but that is as far as I got. Just to add.I did get one reply, indicating they couldn't help me.

Some won't bother with you if you are not a shop. You have to know what you want, and just behave as if you are a 'small, specialty vehicle shop'.

Try for a rebuild on your existing valve body if the time comes that you need it. Quote, originally posted by mekramer001 » OK, so translating this typical dealer mumbo jumbo: 'report today is transmission has internal issues' - translated this means something is wrong inside the transmission, and not the gear selector or engine management computer. 'reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch' translated: Of course clutches don't leak, but the valves supplying the hydraulic pressure to operate them can 'leak' (what they are really doing is bypassing too much or not sealing properly, causing a clutch to not move when it should). Their diagnosis is from test driving, not from a tear down inspection. So at this point, they are saying your complaints have merit, something is wrong in the transmission, and they want to replace the whole thing. So if you get a warranty transmission replacement at N/C, great. If they come back with anything over say $1500 to $1800 out of pocket for you, just replace or repair the valve body, runs about $800 for a rebuilt unit.

If you can change your transmission filter, you can replace the valve body, or give it to a good VW/Audi independent to do. I just replaced the filter on mine and checked into what it takes to remove the valve body. If you are comfortable with replacing brakes, tune-ups, etc and have a clean dry place to work changing the valve body should not be a big deal.

I know your translation is correct, and also thanks for your help and advice on valve bodies. I have gotten an education here thanks to all of you. I wish I knew then what I knew now.I never would have bought the extended warranty. I did so because I was worried about transmission and a/c issues.

The warranty helped with a/c issues, and I am now hoping it will help with the tranny. If they don't cover it, I'll be going the valve body route! It has been there since last Monday and warranty company still hasn't decided what they are going to do.

I am concerned. I can't see any valid reason they could deny it. The tranny was serviced as the manufacturer recommends.but I am sure they'll find a way.

Quote, originally posted by mekramer001 » So if you get a warranty transmission replacement at N/C, great. If they come back with anything over say $1500 to $1800 out of pocket for you, just replace or repair the valve body, runs about $800 for a rebuilt unit. You need to try your hand at fortune telling! You hit it dead on. The warranty company will offer to pay for some local shop I never heard of to do the work. They will remove my transmission, fix what is broken, and put it back in. Their 12/12000 warranty covers only the transmission, not the install.

I can take what is behind door #2, have VW do the job and pay the difference, which will be about $1800. Now I'd rather have VW do the work primarily because I feel I have better recourse if there are problems with the install.

The warranty contract says 'For Quality Maintenance and Repair Service return your vehicle to the selling dealer' so it seems I should be entitled to dealer service. There is language about reasonable costs so I guess what they are saying is they don't find dealer cost, which is for a fully re-manufactured unit, not one where just broken bits have been replaced (as per dealer), to be reasonable. For all I know the independent shop will just replace valve body and any damage resulting from the valve body being defective will remain in place.

Of course no useful info on what failed inside tranny is available. If I didn't have almost $2000 spent on the extended warranty I would just do the valve body myself, but now I feel caught in the middle. Do I walk away or spend another $1800 for new tranny.or do I fight warranty company. Modified by aebad at 8:04 PM. To be short: 1.

You won't win with the warranty company. They usually word it that way to get themselves out of insanely expensive repairs like this. I figured they were going to do that to you when I read your first post.

It is a call only you can make. If you are keeping it long term, it could be argued to cough up the extra $, but it is obviously your wallet, not mine - judgment call. If you are losing the van in the year or so, go the cheap route. Welcome to our version of German hell called 'Eurovan Transmission Repair'. No one ever listens to me - we have to be crazy to love these things!

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